We all know that protein is an important part of a balanced diet. Protein is what we associate with building strong muscles deep down, but does it also have the power to strengthen the outside of our bodies? Human hair, for example, is a complex fibre made up of dead cells, proteins, water, lipids, pigments and trace elements. Our hair is essentially made up of proteins, with one study so far identifying over 300 proteins in human hair.
Keratin treatments in the salon are popular for their ability to smooth and straighten hair. Yet those in the curly community have been using protein at home for years to enhance their curl pattern. Protein treatments are now widely used in every hair care area.
Why hair needs protein
If hair is made of protein, why does it need extra protein treatments? Our living hair cells are located in the root, which is connected to the sebaceous glands in the skin. Therefore, the living cells below the surface are well supplied with blood and oxygen, peptides and lipids from our sebum. The further the hair moves away from the scalp, the smaller the feast becomes - the tree becomes an appetiser, and by the time we get down the shaft to the tips, there are only a few crumbs left to nourish the hair.
As we lose moisture and nutrients, the keratinised protein begins to break down and dissolve. It loses strength and elasticity and the bonds weaken. Eventually it cracks, disintegrates and breaks or splits. The key to healthy hair and scalp is to rebuild, support and strengthen this protein matrix. This can be done chemically in the salon or naturally and herbal at home.
Benefits of protein treatments for the hair
The main advantage of a protein treatment is that the protein components such as hydrolysed wheat protein or silk amino acids bond directly with the hair follicle and harden the cuticle. This creates a barrier around the follicle, protecting it from further damage. Protein treatments are used to restore and seal the cuticle to prevent transepidermal water loss and keep nutrients in the hair.
It is important to note that in expert discussions, the benefits of protein treatments for the hair are usually referred to the benefits of at-home treatment. Keratin and other protein treatments in salons have been found to be associated with some serious health risks, including exposure to formaldehyde. Protein treatments in salons are different from protein masks or deep conditioning conditioners at home. Salon-grade protein treatments contain a number of strong and often harsh chemicals, including formaldehyde. In combination with heat, this can even have the opposite effect and further dry out the hair.
Advantages of protein
- Strengthens the hair follicle: Protein is the building block of hair, so replacing lost or damaged protein in the follicle rows away from the root helps to strengthen the entire hair length.
- Improves hair elasticity: Protein treatments improve the elasticity of the hair follicle by strengthening the protein matrix and reinforcing the bonds to prevent breakage or splitting.
- Prevents transepidermal water loss: By restoring and sealing the cuticle, protein treatments prevent transepidermal water loss and bind food.
- Helps to eliminate hair breakage and split ends: Protein treatments help to eliminate hair breakage and split ends by preventing transepidermal water loss and improving the strength and elasticity of the follicle. This can give the appearance of hair growth, as protein treatments prevent weak, brittle hair, making stronger hair less likely to break.
- Improves the overall appearance of the hair: The popularity of protein treatments is largely due to the observable difference in the appearance of the hair. Proteins will certainly have an effect on the density, elasticity and strength of the hair. In addition, they will help to eliminate breakage and split ends and help the hair to reach its potential diameter - resulting in more, better or healthy hair overall.
Hair type considerations
People with dry, dehydrated, damaged, colour-treated, extremely porous or textured hair benefit most from protein treatments. Protein treatments at home, while not harmful, may not be necessary for people with healthy, shiny, strong and thick hair. In the past, salons used very intensive, chemically-enriched keratin treatments, although alternatives are now available. Protein treatments in salons are different from protein masks or deep conditioning conditioners at home. Salon-grade protein treatments contain a number of strong and often harsh chemicals, including formaldehyde. In combination with heat, this can even have the opposite effect and further dry out the hair.
When and how to use protein treatments for hair
Experts prefer the more herbal protein treatments for hair at home, but recommend that hair be checked for protein deficiency prior to treatment. The intervals between treatments in the salon can range from seasonal to annual, depending on the condition of the hair and scalp. In contrast, at-home protein treatments can be done weekly or monthly, depending on your needs. There are many options for at-home protein treatments, including homemade masks and protein hair products. A 30- to 45-minute application is recommended, and you can leave some products on overnight. You can enhance the effect of a protein treatment by applying heat. A Simple heat treatment with proteins looks like this:
- Apply the protein treatment or mask to the hair from the scalp to the ends. Comb it through with your fingers or a coarse-toothed comb to ensure even distribution.
- Wrap the hair into a chignon and put on a covering, e.g. a shower cap.
- Heat the head with the hairdryer (on a low setting). Move the hairdryer evenly over the head to ensure even heat distribution and to avoid burns.
- Remove the cover and rinse the treatment. Depending on the instructions of the respective product, you may need to use a shampoo and conditioner after this treatment.